Does Refinancing Reset Your Loan Term to 30 Years?

Published 31 May 2026

The short answer

Refinancing does not automatically reset your loan term to 30 years, but in practice it usually does, because most lenders default a new loan to a fresh 30-year term unless you ask for something shorter. If you're five years into a 30-year loan and refinance into another 30-year loan, you've effectively stretched your mortgage to 35 years. The lower monthly repayment can feel like a win, yet spreading the same debt over more years can add tens of thousands of dollars in interest. You can usually avoid this by asking your new lender to match the remaining term (e.g. 25 years).

How it works in Australia

When you refinance, your old loan is discharged and a brand-new loan is written to pay it out. That new loan needs a term, and the lender's standard offer is almost always 30 years: the longest common term, which produces the lowest monthly repayment and the easiest serviceability assessment.

Two things happen at once:

  1. The clock restarts. Your principal is amortised again over a full new term, so early repayments are once again mostly interest.
  2. The repayment drops because the balance is now spread over more years. That is exactly why a longer term costs more interest overall, even at the same rate.

Australia's consumer regulator notes that when switching, you should "be firm on the length of home loan you want — otherwise you could end up with a longer loan term than the years left to pay off your current mortgage, and the longer you have a loan, the more you'll pay in interest" (Moneysmart).

Most lenders can write a custom term or offer increments (25, 20, 15 years), so a term reset is a choice, not a rule.

Worked example: a $600k loan, 5 years in

Say you took a $600,000 loan at 6% over 30 years. The monthly principal-and-interest repayment is about $3,597, and over the full 30 years you'd pay roughly $695,000 in interest.

After 5 years of repayments your balance is about $558,300. Now you refinance, and let's assume the same 6% rate, so we isolate the effect of the term alone.

OptionNew termMonthly repaymentInterest from here on
Keep going (no refi)25 yrs left$3,597~$520,900
Refi, term reset30 yrs~$3,347~$646,800
Refi, term matched25 yrs~$3,597~$520,900

Resetting to 30 years cuts the repayment by about $250/month, but adds roughly $125,900 in interest over the life of the loan, purely from stretching the term back out. Matching the term to the 25 years remaining keeps the repayment and total interest essentially unchanged (you'd refinance for the rate, not the term).

The maths is checkable: $3,347 × 360 payments − $558,300 ≈ $646,800 of interest on the reset loan, versus $3,597 × 300 − $558,300 ≈ $520,900 if you keep the original schedule.

Don't forget the switching costs on top: a lender discharge fee (often ~$150–$400), a state mortgage discharge and re-registration fee (commonly ~$160–$230 combined), and possibly a valuation. These typically total a few hundred to a couple of thousand dollars (Moneysmart).

Model this in True Loan

You can see the term effect for yourself in True Loan. It's free and runs entirely in your browser.

To replicate the example above, build two scenarios and put them side by side in the comparison view:

The total-interest and total-cost figures, plus the remaining-debt timeline, will show the gap directly. If you want to refinance for a lower repayment without paying the long-term penalty, set Scenario B to the lower repayment of A but use the Extra repayment ($/month) input to pay the difference back in; True Loan will show the loan clearing years earlier. To test whether parking savings in an offset gets you there instead, use the dedicated Offset balance input (it's separate from extra repayments).

Common questions and mistakes

See also: Is refinancing worth it for a 0.5% lower rate?, What does it cost to refinance a home loan?, and 25 vs 30-year home loan: total interest.


All figures are estimates for the 2025–26 financial year and depend on your rate, balance and lender. Check official sources such as Moneysmart and your state revenue office. This is general information, not financial or credit advice.

This guide is general information and estimates only — not financial or credit advice. Figures vary by lender and circumstances; always confirm with official sources.

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